Texas Living

Recipe: Texas Beanless Chili

By Eve Hill-Agnus 9.25.24

If I could time travel, I would go back to 1893, when the San Antonio Chili Stand at the Chicago World’s Columbian Exposition introduced the country to a dish that had been ladled out by San Antonio’s “Chili Queens” as a hearty, working-class staple since the 1860s. By 1977, it was named the state dish of Texas.

Apocryphal stories suggest it was simmered from wild onions and native peppers over an open fire by vaqueros ranging on the plains. One thing is certain: With its marriage of meat, sauce, and spice, Texas beanless chili may be accompanied by skillet cornbread or pillowy tortillas, but it steals the spotlight, with nary a bean in sight.

The fact that it was often ladled over enchiladas or tamales may help explain its simplicity. In 1952, at the Texas State Fair, the first-ever Texas chili contest made it clear: No beans allowed.

I like to adapt Julia Moskin’s beanless chili recipe from The New York Times. I like her use of chuck roast, which turns fork-tender from hours of simmering (though a ground beef version is quicker). I like the inclusion of tomatoes, though those are not necessarily traditional. And I adore the nuances brought by chocolate, chiles, and spices — both powdered and whole.

Serves 12

Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon whole cumin seeds
  • 1 ½ teaspoons whole coriander seeds
  • 4 pounds beef chuck roast
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 large yellow or white onion, chopped
  • 6 large garlic cloves, minced
  • 4–6 large fresh green jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
  • 2 tablespoons ground pure chile powder, such as pasilla, guajillo, arbol, or ancho
  • 1 tablespoon dried oregano
  • 12 ounces beef broth
  • 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, preferably fire-roasted
  • 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate
  • 3 whole dried large red chiles, such as New Mexico or guajillo
  • 1 quart water

Method

In a small, heavy skillet, toast cumin and coriander seeds until fragrant. Using a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder, grind to a powder and set aside. Cut beef into 2-inch cubes. Sprinkle with salt.

In a large, heavy pot, heat the oil over high heat. Then, working in batches, brown the meat, turning occasionally. Remove the meat from the pot and let it drain on paper towels.

Add the cumin-coriander powder, onion, garlic, jalapeños, chile powder, and oregano to the now-empty pot. Cook the onion until it softens, 5–10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add meat, beef broth, tomatoes, chocolate, whole chiles, and 1 quart water. Simmer for 11⁄2 hours or until the meat is fork-tender. Remove dried chiles. Taste and add salt if needed.

To serve, sprinkle the chili with chopped onion and cilantro, cheese, or a dollop of sour cream. The chili tastes even better one or two days after it is made.

Sop up any leftover beanless chili with a slice of warm, homemade bread.

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