City Spotlight: Karnes County
Karnes County is one of those regions southeast of San Antonio that few ever travel to, but it’s home to several little towns with incredible cultural importance. No city in Karnes County is quite big enough to merit a daylong trip all on its own, but since each offers its own special piece of Texas history and culture (and the towns are all so close together), it’d be a shame to miss a single one. So, let’s make a day trip out of Karnes County.
The Oldest Polish Settlement in America
When people think of European immigration to Texas in the 19th century, they usually think about the German Belt in Hill Country, Czech kolaches up and down Central Texas, and the Spanish missions on the frontier. Fewer people realize that Polish immigrants were also some of the first settlers in Texas. In fact, Panna Maria, right here in Karnes County, is the oldest Polish settlement in the United States.
The Poles’ first settlement was founded in 1854 when they landed on the Texas coast and made their way inland to start a community founded on their faith and Polish heritage. The first thing they built — even before their houses — was their church, the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary Catholic Church, which is still standing today. It’s one of the famous “Painted Churches of Texas” and an awesome piece of European architecture. Between the exquisite painted ceiling and beautiful mosaics, you’ll get a good sense of the tradition those early Poles brought to Texas.
Across the street from the church is a brand-new Polish heritage center. Now, many historical museums in Texas’ small towns are mostly pictures of somebody’s grandpa, some farm equipment, and maybe a piano. Not so in Panna Maria: This museum could fit right in in Washington, D.C. It’s decked out with floor-to-ceiling displays and automated exhibit lights in service of centuries of breathtaking oil paintings and stunning stained glass windows. There’s even a whole exhibit on Poland’s part in the World Wars, which is like its own epic museum inside an epic museum.
Kielbasa in Karnes
When the Poles arrived in Karnes County, they brought everything that was most important to their heritage: history, faith, and food. And, of course, I’m talking about Polish sausage (or Polska kielbasa, as they call it here).
About 10 minutes west of Panna Maria, there’s a town called Falls City, home to Pollok’s Market and Deli. Pollok’s is a full-on kielbasa factory and barbecue joint that churns out about 12,000 pounds of meat every week. Their sausage recipe came over with the first Poles in 1854 and has stayed in the family since. The business is in its sixth generation of the Pollok family, so obviously, it was some of the best sausage I’ve ever had.
Karnes’ County Seat(s)?
With bellies full, it’s time to head southeast from Falls City along U.S. Route 181 to the county seat, Karnes City. Only some 3,000 people live here, but it’s home to one of the prettiest courthouses in Texas. It looks almost like a fairy-tale castle perched on a hill. It’s well over 100 years old and open to the public, so give yourself a tour while you’re exploring the county seat.
A local legend claims Karnes City wasn’t always the county seat. Apparently, Helena, a little ghost town just up the road, was the county seat from 1854 to 1894. As the story goes, Helena was once known as “the toughest town on earth,” full of renegades and outlaws who killed the son of a powerful local rancher. The furious rancher declared, “I’m going to kill the town that killed my son.” When the railroad extended to Karnes County not long after, this rancher made sure that the railroad bypassed Helena and went through Karnes City instead. Sure enough, Helena quickly dwindled to nothing, and now it’s barely on the map. You can visit it, but there’s not much that survived the wrath of that vendetta.
Last Stop: A Wood-Fired Steak
For the last stop on your way out of Karnes County, swing south to Kennedy. It’s also only got a couple thousand residents, but its claim to fame is an incredible steakhouse called Mesquite Wood Steakhouse. It’s completely family-run and every piece of meat is cooked over a live wood fire. There’s no better spot to end a day trip in Karnes County.
Explore more of Texas’ small towns with The Daytripper here.
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